Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed people concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards assist urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout the City
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the skins and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on